Main Page Subject Index Learn as you Play |
Score Calculator One Table Bridge
All you need to play at home
(Down - Top)
DUP 1 - Checklist of what you need
Playing duplicate bridge at home is great fun and an excellent form of entertainment. You can combine it with a morning coffee, or an afternoon tea, or you can organise an evening event with perhaps a supper halfway through or at the end of the evening.
You need at least 8 players (2 tables) to be able to play duplicate bridge.
More players can be added, preferably in multiples of 4, each filling an additional table. You can have an odd number of people but this means that one or more players are "sitting out" (not playing) for one round, which can be about half an hour.
Here is a check list of what you need for each group of 4 players.
(Down - Up - Top) DUP 2 - Duplicate boards required The absolute minimum you require is one board for each table.
Successive rounds can be scored on the same traveller for each board. Just leave one blank space (or draw a horizontal line) between each round of scoring.
An advantage of this simple approach is that during a halfway break (for tea or supper) all players can freely chat about the deals they played, as all players have completed the same boards. (In a normal club session, with 24 or more individual boards, played at successive rounds at different tables, this is not possible.) Alternatively you use a set of say 24 boards.
In such case 2, 3 or 4 boards are placed on each table as specified on the movement guides. At the beginning of play all boards are shuffled, dealt and played by the players at the table.
After all boards on each table have been played, all players and boards move to their specified tables for the next round.
All boards are only shuffled and dealt once (at or before the beginning of play) and remain so until the end of the competition.
This requires a bit more attention by the director as from round to round the movements of the various boards may move in and out of play.
Fold the cut-out piece open and make a fold across 7cm (or 2.5 inches) from each end. You can make a very shallow cut with a pen knife to produce a nice sharp fold.
Fold the outside flaps inwards from these two prepared fold lines.
Make four card pockets with staples on the sides and in the centre as shown below.
Mark with a felt pen the pockets for N, E, S, W, who is the Dealer and the Board Number.
Stick a red sticker on the appropriate pockets showing the vulnerability for the board.
Close the wallet and write the board number on the outside of the wallet. These duplicate wallets are perfectly adequate, are very strong, and will last for many years of use. I suggest you make at least 8 of these wallets.
In a Mitchell movement all NS pairs compete against each other, and separately all EW pairs also compete against each other. There are therefore two winning pairs, one winning NS pair and one winning EW pair.
Table Guide cards are not required for Mitchell movements, but use the Table Number cards provided below. These show the table number plus the position of the North player.
Players take their Pair number from the Table they sit at for the first round. At Table 1 are pairs 'NS1' and 'EW1'. At Table 2 are pairs 'NS2' and 'EW2', etc.
Alternative Mitchell movement for an even number of tables
There is an elegant alternative to avoid the skip for EW pairs halfway through the movement when you have an even number of tables. The Diagram below shows the alternative set up for a 6-Table Mitchell.
Now the EW pairs do not have to skip after round 3, but move up one table as normal, while not running into boards they have played already. So with this movement all EW pairs play against all NS pairs, and all pairs play all boards.
A similar setup can be used for an 8-table Mitchell.
(Down - Up - Top)
DUP 6 - Howell movements for Pairs
In a Howell movement each pair competes against all (or most) other pairs. At the end there is therefore only one winning pair. Howell movements are most suitable for a small number of tables, up to 7 tables. I have included Howell movement Guide cards for 2, 3, 4, and 5 tables. After each round most pairs move, sometimes switching from a NS position to an EW position or vise versa. Boards too move in a more complex way and their placement for each round should therefore be left to the Director.
The South player however is responsible for checking that the board on his table are the correct ones for that round (as shown on the Guide Card).
For a 5-table Howell for example place 1 board on each table to be shuffled, dealt and played. After all boards have been played on one table they move to the next lower numbered table to be played there too. Repeat this process once more. Then (after each board has been played on three separate tables) all players move for the next round (as indicated on the Howell guide cards) and all boards are shovelled and dealt again.
This manner of play has the advantage that you can stop the session after any round if you wish. With a full set of boards it is always best to complete the entire Howell movement as only then all boards have been played the same number of times. Odd number of Pairs
With an odd number of pairs each pair sits out one round of play. This happens when they move to the "sit out table".
Always make the table with the stationary NS pair (usually Table 1) the sit out table. This way the sit out is always at the same table and does not change from round to round.
With 5 pairs run a 3-table Howell. Place the odd pair on Table 1 EW but leave the NS positions empty. This will be the "sit out table". Place the remaining 4 pairs on Tables 2 and 3. With 7 pairs run a 4-table Howell. Place the odd pair on Table 1 EW but leave the NS positions empty. This will be the "sit out table". Place the remaining 6 pairs on Tables 2, 3 and 4. With 9 pairs run a 5-table Howell. Place the odd pair on Table 1 EW but leave the NS positions empty. This will be the "sit out table". Place the remaining 8 pairs on Tables 2, 3, 4 and 5.
(Down - Up - Top)
DUP 7 - Individual movements
In an individual movement each player competes against all (or most) other players. There is always only one winner in this type of competition.
Players move from round to round in a Howell movement fashion. Boards either move in Howell movement fashion or are shared ('relayed' = R) between 2 or more tables.
I have included Individual movement guide cards for 8, 12 and 16 players.
Players who move to this position sit out for one round, then continue their movement (next to Table 1 West).
With 13 players use a 3-Table Individual movement. Place the last player as number 13 on Table 2 East at the beginning of Round 2. He stays there for all remaining rounds.
Players who move to this position sit out for one round, then continue their movement (next to Table 2 North).
With 16 or more players :
(Down - Up - Top) DUP 8 - Responsibilities of the Director The director is in charge of all aspects of the competition. His main tasks are :
(Down - Up - Top)
DUP 9 - Responsibilities of the Players
In the heat of the battle mistakes are unavoidable and frustration can flare up easily. The hall mark of a good player is that he keeps smiling and is supportive of his partner no matter what. Don't point out partner's mistakes (you never make them of course) and hand out a quick bridge lesson (you never need one of course) at the end of each deal, it will only have the reverse effect you intended.
The first responsibility of all players is therefore to be courteous at the table at all times. Be humble in your victories and graceful in your defeats. Above all keep your partner smiling and happy, it will greatly improve his game as well as yours.
All players must check on the Movement guide card that they are sitting at the right spot at the right table for each round.
All players are responsible for counting their cards (face down) immediately after taking them out of the duplicate board. If you do have an incorrect number (12 or 14 cards) call the Director.
All players must not waste time.
Do not sit agonising endlessly over every bid you make or every card you play. Doing so wastes time allocated for each board and penalises all players at your table. This is bad selfish behaviour and most unsportsmanlike.
Bridge is not just about making the right decisions. It is about making decisions within a short span of time. With the benefit of hindsight we all would be perfect players. Also making mistakes will help you to become a better player. Agonising over every move will keep you bogged down forever.
N players are responsible for writing the results on the travelling score sheet after each deal.
If you notice (what you believe is) an incorrect entry by another table on the score sheet do not correct it, but write a question mark (?) behind it. If you believe it important call the Director.
S players are responsible for checking that the right boards for that round are on the table. If this is not the case call the Director.
(Down - Up - Top)
DUP 10 - Silent Bidding
To avoid the problem of players hearing the bidding from other tables most bridge clubs use a method of silent bidding.
The larger clubs commonly use for this purpose boxes of bidding cards (one box for each player). These are available from all bridge supply shops, but can add up to a considerable expense.
Smaller clubs therefore generally use bidding slips on which each player writes (with a pen or pencil) his bid each time his turn comes around.
Below an example of such a bidding slip.
The great advantage of this method of silent bidding is that each player can see the entire bidding sequence as it evolves, without having to remember or ask. At the end of the auction the bidding slip is removed before the Dummy goes down on the table. For each deal a new bidding slip is used.
When using bidding slips make sure to have 4 pencils on each table. (Alternatively, like in many clubs, players have to bring their own.)
A printout sheet with bidding slips is provided in the Download section below.
Bidding slips in handy tear-off blocks are commonly available from bridge supply shops.
(Down - Up - Top)
DUP 11 - Download material
(Up - Top - Main Page)
Copyright © 2018 . All rights reserved.